Frequently asked questions and trouble shooting tips for your light. If these don’t work, please complete the warranty form with required information. Serial number can be located on the light and will start with 2 digits (for example 14, 15, 16, etc)

  • Do not use any “Air sprayer” to clean out lights or battery cradles as permanent damage could occur.
  • *Lights purchased within 12 months by consumer are covered under warranty. Replacement parts are available for out of warranty lights.
  • *MUST HAVE PROOF OF PURCHASE WITHIN 12 MONTHS TO RECEIVE RA#. DIVER ERROR WILL NOT BE HANDLED AS WARRANTY
  • If a Return Authorization number (RA#) is issued, the light MUST be returned within 30 days of receiving RA# to qualify for warranty.

TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDES

FUSION LIGHTS (1000, 530, 260)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check that the batteries are fully charged.    Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. Replace batteries:

FUS260 IT14500

FUS530 IT18650                                         Fus1000 IT26650

Light flickers/dims Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used)  are installed correctly
Light body appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*
Switch is broken/fell out Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*
Light head has water in it and appears to be turning yellow or flaking, but the rest of the light is fine Replace light head RP-FUS1000-LTHD

RP-FUS530-LTHD

O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring FUS260  RP-FUS260-ORING

FUS530 RP-FUS500-ORING

FUS1000 RP-FUS1000-ORNG

End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty
Light/ battery area seems corroded/need new battery cradle Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. Replace battery cradle with tail cap Replacement battery Holders

FUS530  RP-F530-BTHD

FUS1000 RP-F1000-BTHD

 I lost FUS260 Extension, rechargeable batteries, chargers or cables for my lights Contact [email protected] to purchase replacements
Battery is draining when left in light Only reported for FUS260 pre-production run.  Supply serial number for verification for RA#
UV LIGHT
UV Light (UV01)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check that the batteries are fully charged.    Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. IT18650
Light flickers/dims Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used)  are installed correctly.  Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap).
Light body appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*
Light head has water in it and appears to be turning yellow or flaking, but the rest of the light is fine Replace light head RP-UV01-LTHD
Switch is broken Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*
O-ring is sticking/worn out Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light.  Clean and lubricate often.  Replace o-ring when needed. RP-FUS500-ORING
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time RP-F530-BTHD
Switch broke off Replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light No, after light has been on 5 seconds in one mode, it will turn off when pushed up
T1000 USB LIGHTS (T1000S & T1000V)
T1000 USB Lights (T1000S & T1000V)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Make sure it is the correct 18650-A battery. Check that the batteries are fully charged.    Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and both the inside and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. IT18650-A
Light body appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*
O-ring is sticking/worn out Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light.  Clean and lubricate often.  Replace o-ring when needed. RP-T1000-ORING
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty
Not sure charging unit is working Make sure the light starts out red, then changes to green.  If it doesn’t, replace the charing unit.  If it does, verify batteries are good. RP-T1000-ECCS
Body of light seems to be annodizing/corroding Make sure light is dry before charging as any salt water left on the light will cause the body to start corroding
Light gets hot These lights are for UNDERWATER USE ONLY.  Do not use above water.
How and where do I put on the o-ring that is in the package This is a spare o-ring, there is already an oring on the tail cap.  Keep this to replace the orginal when needed.
Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light No, hold the button for 6 seconds and light will go off
ICOM II (SERIAL #'s 16 ON)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Ensure that tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Check to make sure switch is not loose.  Make sure batteries are intact and NEW. RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT – switch

AAA Battery

Light flickers/dims Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Make sure batteries are installed correctly
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*
Switch is broken Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*
Endcap is worn out/broken Replace end cap RP-ICOMII-TSBT
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-SLS-ORING
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. Replace battery cradle with tail cap RP-ICOMII-TSBT
Battery cradle is corroded/broken or end cap needs to be replaced Replace tailcap/battery cradle (one piece) RP-ICOMII-TSBT
TOVATEC 3600 (TOV3600)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check that the batteries are fully charged.    Ensure that batteries are installed correctly and tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Make sure battery cradle is installed correctly if using alkaline batteries. IT26650
Light flickers/dims Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used)  are installed correctly.  Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap).
Light body appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*
Light head has water in it and appears to be turning yellow or flaking, but the rest of the light is fine Replace light head RP-3600-LTHD
Switch is broken Call in for replacement switch and video to remove/replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*
O-ring is sticking/worn out Keeping o-rings clean and lubricated is the best way to avoid a flooded light.  Clean and lubricate often.  Replace o-ring when needed. RP-T3600-ORING
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time. Replace battery cradle RP-3600-BTHD
Switch broke off Replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
Do I have to cycle through all modes to turn off the light No, after light has been on 5 seconds in one mode, it will trun off when slid up
IFL 660-R - New Optimized in 2017 (new serial numbers will start with 17)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Rechargeable batteries won’t work in the light, but CR123 work fine Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries.  Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact.  Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). IT18650/IT123
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
     
Switch is broken Request replacement switch  RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
     
Light won’t turn on Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged IT123 or IT18650
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-N660-TLCAP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-N660-ORING
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used)  are installed correctly.  Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap).  
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
Ultra III New Optimized in 2017 new serial numbers will start with 16 on)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check batteries.  Replace if necessary. 6 x AA
  Check battery holder to ensure it is intact and makes contact RP-NULT3-BTHOLD
  Possibly replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
     
Tail cap won’t go on easily Clean O-rings with silicon RP-NULT3-ORING
Replace O-rings if they are damaged. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used)  are installed correctly.  Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap).
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
     
Battery holder is broken/corroded Replace battery holder RP-NULT3-BTHOLD
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-NULT3-TLCAP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-NULT3-ORING
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
Sports Tac Light (ST2000) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH FUS260
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check that the battery is fully charged.    Ensure that tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact. May be a switch problem (return for evaluation if still under warranty)  
     
Light flickers/dims Ensure tail cap is completely screwed on to make full contact.  Make sure battery is installed correctly and fully charged  
     
Battery won’t charge/ won’t hold charge Make sure battery is placed correctly in the light (positive side towards the light head) and charging base is screwed down tightly.  Ensure USB is fully inserted into device and light.  If all fails, replace battery IT14500
     
USB charger flickers from red to green when light is fully charged Not a product defect, light will operate as intended  
     
The charging indicator light is always red, does not change to green light after suitable charging time The charging unit may be defective. Replace unit RP-ST200-USBEC
     
     
Light is flashing Recharge battery, there is a low battery indicator on the light  
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Switch is broken Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch  
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Endcap is worn out/broken Replace end cap only (not charging unit) RP-ST2000-ENDCP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-ST2000-ORING
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
Compact Light (ICOM) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH ICOM II (old ICOM SERIAL # range 07 thru 14)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Rechargeable batteries won’t work in the light, but CR123 work fine Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries.  Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact.  Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). IT18650/IT123
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
     
Switch is broken Request replacement switch  RP-FUS-ICM-SWIT
     
Light won’t turn on Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged IT123 or IT18650
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-N660-TLCAP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-N660-ORING
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty. Make sure batteries and battery cradle (if being used)  are installed correctly.  Make sure all contact surfaces in the torch are clean (especially the inside threads of the end cap).  
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
IFL 660-R - REPLACED WITH OPTIMIZED LIGHTS (Old SERIAL # Range 08 thru 16)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Rechargeable batteries won’t work in the light, but CR123 work fine Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries.  Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact.  Make sure this is “R” version not older 660 version.  Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). IT18650
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
     
Switch is broken Request replacement switch (specify if switch has on/off) RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
     
Light won’t turn on Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged IT123 or IT18650
     
Batteries rattle  If using CR123 batteries, use the spacer that was shipped with the light to hold them tight.  Does not affect functionality of the light. RP-CR123-SPACER
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-IFL660R-TLCP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-MULTI-ORING
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Switch is stiff Remove the switch and inspect the magnet. Maybe a build-up of iron sand, or badly rusted magnet from lack of care. Use an old toothbrush to clean. Test the magnet without the bracket.  Replace switch if needed. RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
     
Ultra III - REPLACED WITH OPTIMIZED LIGHT (Old SERIAL # Range 08 thru 15)
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check batteries.  Replace if necessary. Check battery holder to ensure it is intact and makes contact. Possibly replace switch 6 x AA / RP-ULTRA-BTHOLD (only serial # 13-15) /    RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
     
Tail cap won’t go on easily Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged RP-ULTNEW-ORING
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch  RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
     
Battery holder is broken/corroded Replace battery holder RP-ULTRA-BTHOLD (serial #13-15 only)
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-ULTIII-TLCAP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring, tail cap/ body RP-ULTNEW-ORING
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
IFL WA ZOOM-R - DISCONTINED - REPLACED WITH FUS530
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Rechargeable batteries won’t work in the light, but CR123 work fine Ensure you are using Tovatec approved batteries.  Battery with intact cathode tip protruding 1mm minimum is required to make contact.  Make sure this is “R” version not older 660 version.  Use a dental tool to gently pull the metal tab (on the inside, by the light head) up to make contact with battery (in rare cases this piece gets compressed). IT18650
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
Switch is broken Request replacement switch (specify if switch has on/off) RP-SIDE-NEWSWI
     
Light won’t turn on Double check that batteries are fresh and/or charged IT123 or IT18650
     
Batteries rattle  If using CR123 batteries, use the spacer that was shipped with the light to hold them tight.  Does not affect functionality of the light. RP-CR123-SPACER
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-IFL-ZMR-TLCP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-MULTI-ORING
     
End cap won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
Search Light (SL1) - DISCONTINUED
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check batteries.  Replace if necessary. 3 x C
     
Tail cap won’t go on easily Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged RP-SL1-ORING
     
Switch seems struck A common problem we see is magnetic switches sticking. All our lights use magnetic switches.  This occurs when diving in salt water – sometimes after a dive salt will dry on the magnetic plates causing the switch to malfunction.  Try soaking your entire light in Hot water for 10- 15 minutes then keep the light in the water (as hot as you can take it) and depress or slide the switch on and off several times.  Repeat this procedure a few times.  If this doesn’t work, try using WD40 to break through the salt crystals – let it sit for a few minutes.  If it doesn’t work, replace switch RP-SL1-SWITCH (black)/RP-SL1-BZSWIT (bronze)
     
Tail switch won’t come off Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-SL1-SWITCH (black)/RP-SL1-BZSWIT (bronze)
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-SL1-ORING
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Light attempts to turn on when switch is depressed, but then immediately turns off. Test the switch by placing one tip of metal scissors on the end of the battery cradle and the other tip on the inside metal of the tail end of the light.  If the light goes on, the switch needs to be replaced.   RP-SL1-SWITCH (black)/RP-SL1-BZSWIT (bronze)
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
Beacon (BCON) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH TOV3600
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on/off Spray with wd-40 and rotate switch for several minutes.  Soak in hot water to rinse debris away.  
     
Light doesn’t work in all 3 positions Spray with wd-40 and rotate switch for several minutes.  Soak in hot water to rinse debris away.  
     
Tail cap won’t go on easily Clean O-rings with silicon. Replace O-rings if they are damaged RP-BCON-OREND
     
Switch seems struck / hard to rotate Spray rotating switch with WD-40 and let sit for a few minutes.  Rotate switch back and forth several minutes.  Rinse in hot water for a few minutes (or soak to get salt crystals out) and try light again.  If this doesn’t work, send in for testing*  
     
One or more LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
Spring is broken in end cap Replace end cap  RP-BCON-TLCAP
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring, tail cap/ body RP-BCON-OREND/RP-BCON-ORBODY
     
Diffuser is lost Order new part RP-BCON-DIFFUSE – no longer available
     
Need new battery Order new part BCON BAT – no longer available
     
Charger is lost Order new part RP-BCON-CHRGE – no longer available
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Battery won’t charge Check charging pin on end of battery to ensure it is not bent/broken/shoved into battery.   BCON BAT – no longer available
     
Charger stays green when charging battery Try a different charger.  If problem persists, replace charger and/or battery.  Note: newest charger does not have a red/green light indicator no longer available
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time  
Galaxy (GVL) - DISCONTINUED - REPLACED WITH GVL II
Problem Possible Solution Replacement Part
Light won’t turn on Check battery  Charge if necessary. Batteries no longer available
     
Light doesn’t work in all 3 positions Spray with wd-40 and rotate switch for several minutes.  Soak in hot water to rinse debris away.  
     
Switch seems struck / hard to rotate Spray rotating switch with WD-40 and let sit for a few minutes.  Rotate switch back and forth several minutes.  Rinse in hot water for a few minutes (or soak to get salt crystals out) and try light again.  If this doesn’t work, send in for testing*  
     
One or more LED doesn’t work Do NOT remove light head.  Broken seal and/or tool marks will void warranty.  Return for testing*  
     
O-ring is sticking/worn out Replace o-ring RP-GVL-ORBODY
     
Can’t separate light head from battery Spray with WD40 to dissolve salt crystals.  Do not use tools to remove.  Tool marks will void warranty  
     
Need new battery Order new part GVL BAT – no longer available
     
Charger is lost Order new part GVL CHRGR – no longer available
     
New battery doesn’t have connector adapter Order new part RP-GVL-BATBRKT – no longer available
     
Light appears flooded Return for testing to determine factory defect or diver error*  
     
Battery won’t charge Check charging pin on end of battery to ensure it is not bent/broken/shoved into battery.   GVL BAT – no longer available
     
Charger stays green when charging battery Try a different charger.  If problem persists, replace battery and/or charger GVL CHRGR / GVL BAT – no longer available
     
Light/ battery area seems corroded Typically not a warranty issue.  Clean light after each use.  Do not leave batteries in light for an extended period of time